Why surf?

According to Surfertody.com the top 25 reasons why people surfer are:

1. Riding a wave is a breathless experience 2. Adrenaline injections pump our heart and blood 3. Sun, salt and sand are a virtuous blend 4. Oceans have a positive impact on human health 5. The best way to forget your daily problems is to face bigger challenges 6. In the lineup, you're alone with everybody 7. Every wave has a different feeling 8. As you progress, you're compelled to surf better each day 9. There are waves in every corner of the world 10. It's a great way of living life 12. Personal surfing photos are inestimable 13. Only a surfer knows the feeling 14. There's a deep sense of connection with the cultural history of surfing through time 15. There's always the next surfboard to be bought 16. Surfing makes you feel alive 17. The first wave ride is unforgettable 18. Weather forecasts are never 100% accurate, adding to thrill 19. Humans love water 20. Each ridden wave is a personal story 21. Gods seem to be around during the best waves of your life 23. Wax smells nice 24. Surfboards are objects of design and desire 25. The drive to exploring and discover new surf spots intensifies with time