Quotes: What it is like to ride a wave

Riding a wave is like the “Perfect Storm”. A simultaneous occurrence of events that provide an opportunity to become “One with Nature” while experiencing the magical feeling of “flying” we imagined as kids along with the sense of achievement that we crave as adults. Total fulfillment on all levels; hence the addiction. -Kathy Pommet

When you are waiting for a wave your mind can think a thousand different things. when you paddle for a wave your mind thinks of only a few things. when you catch a wave your mind thinks of only one thing, that one thing is joy. This is why I surf. -Ron

There’s no greater feeling than surfing and that feeling of being part of the ocean, really riding on top of the world. Surfing’s freedom, adventure and creativity rolled into one. It’s easy to see why surfers love surfing so much and I also love teaching newbies to surf so they can experience that joy. There’s only one place you can get that feeling and it’s in the surf.

-Annabel Candy, Get In the Hot Spot

It feels like the moment you’re in is where you’re supposed to be; ‘only a surfer knows the feeling -Dave Aabo, Waves for Development

Riding a WAVE: Is like a bird riding on the wind. You can feel nature’s energy in the waves as you catch it. You cut through the water and glide effortlessly.Sometimes it bends around you so you can ride inside. It’s almost a spiritual feeling of being closer to what made us. Then, just as quick as it came, it dies on the shore. You’re hooked, and can’t wait to go catch another!

Drew Brophy

Eckharte Tolle wrote that “if the primary focus of of your life is the now, then you will be free from pain and suffering.” When you’re on a wave, time ceases exist, and you’re in a such an intense combined state of euphoria, peace, presence and excitement that it’s something you have to return over and over again. Once you realize that, to live any other way would seem completely insane.

-Srinivas Rao, The Skool of Life

(http://theskooloflife.com/wordpress/10-surfers-describe-what-it-feels-like-to-ride-a-wave/)

When you’re riding a wave, you’re physically riding energy, the memory of wind energy that’s pulsing between water molecules. You really do become part of the wave. Especially in the hollow, you’re really inside of that vortex of spiraling energy. You’ll hear surfers who have no background in the metaphysical or Zen say, “I rode that wave and didn’t feel like I existed. The wave was there; I was there; we were together.” That really is the feeling, that feeling of merging with an energy that is much greater than yourself. (The Zen of Surfing)